Palestine is a beautiful country with a rich culture and complicated history. In the heart of the Holy Land, Palestine attracts religious pilgrims from each of the three major monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. In recent years, alternative tourism, also known as justice or conflict tourism, has attracted many secular visitors. Palestine also offers more traditional tourist destinations, including beaches like the Dead Sea and ancient historical sites. Whether you’re a religious tourist, a justice or conflict tourist, or interested in visiting for a leisurely vacation, here are some things you should know before you go:
Do your research
Before visiting any country, it is important to understand the country’s history, culture, and politics, at least on a basic level. As a tourist, it is your responsibility to understand how to travel ethically and safely in whatever country you are visiting.
International Travel
There are no airports in Palestine, so international flights typically fly into Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv, Israel. You can also choose to cross into Israel via the Allenby Bridge in Jordan. In either case, there are no direct routes to the West Bank, so you will need to take a private taxi, a bus, a train, or a sherut (shared taxi) depending on your final destination. From Tel Aviv, you will have to take transport to Damascus Gate in Jerusalem. From there, you can find many buses, taxis, and sheruts that can take you to virtually any destination in the West Bank.
Preparing Travel Documents
It is important to note that Israel does not have the best relationship with neighboring Arab countries. If you have passport stamps from other countries in the Middle East, you may be denied entry into Israel. Tourists are allowed to stay for up to three months without a special visa. You need not apply for a visa prior to flying to Tel Aviv; you will be given a ‘blue slip’ visa upon arrival that should be kept in your passport at all times. Do not lose this slip! If you lose your visa, you will be required to pay a hefty penalty fee to the state of Israel before leaving the country.
At the Airport
Depending on your starting point and any potential layovers, you might be questioned about the purpose of your travel prior to entering Israel. Furthermore, depending on your nationality, what passport(s) you hold, and your religion, you may be subject to more questioning upon your arrival in Israel. I recommend preparing an itinerary in case you are asked about your stay. If you are volunteering in the West Bank or participating on alternative tours in Palestine, I recommend not mentioning this to Israeli TSA, as you may be detained longer for further questioning.
Be mindful of the Israeli Occupation
If you are going to be traveling to the West Bank, you will likely have to pass through checkpoints. If you are traveling by bus or taxi, these shouldn’t be too much of a concern. However, if you are traveling with Palestinians in a private car, passing through a checkpoint may be a more stressful situation. Be prepared to answer many questions, including “Where are you from?” and “Where are you going?” ALWAYS carry your passport when traveling in the West Bank because they are often checked at checkpoints. Israeli Defense Force (IDF) soldiers may also stop you as you are walking around to check your travel documents. Therefore, it is crucial to keep your passport and visa with you at all times.
Is Palestine Safe?
A common misconception is that the West Bank is an unsafe place to visit, and this view is perpetuated in the media. However, Palestine is very safe for international tourists. However, I would recommend staying updated with current events through local news channels. There are occasionally clashes between Palestinians and IDF soldiers that may make certain areas less safe and more difficult to travel to. At the moment, it is best to avoid travel to Nablus and Jenin due to ongoing clashes.
What the Language of Palestinians?
Arabic is the official language of Palestine. However, many people speak at least basic English, so it shouldn’t be difficult to get around if you don’t know any Arabic. It might be helpful to learn a few basic phrases before you travel to Palestine, if only to impress your Palestinian hosts.
Palestinian Hospitality
Palestinians are some of the kindest, most welcoming people in the world, perhaps especially to tourists. It is not uncommon to be approached on the street by Palestinians who want to practice their English or invite you to their homes. When passing shops or even gas stations, you will likely be invited in for a coffee or tea. If you have the time, this is an excellent opportunity to immerse yourself in Palestinian culture and honor and respect your Palestinian hosts.
Food in Palestine
Palestine is home to some of the best cuisine in the world. Traditional Palestinian dishes often include rice and meat, either beef or chicken. Vegetarian dishes might be harder to find in Palestine, but not impossible. Falafel and shawarma are excellent ‘fast-food’ and are usually the cheapest food options. For sit down meals, dishes like maklouba or mansaf are highly recommended. My personal favorite dish is called musakhan, which is made of bread, chicken, onion, and olive oil. It is a very simple dish with delicious, savory flavors.
Currency & Cost
The official currency in both Israel and Palestine is the New Israeli Shekel (NIS). Israel is fairly expensive, with similar prices to those in the United States and many countries in Western Europe. Palestine is cheaper than Israel but may be more expensive than you think. Food like falafel is usually around 5 shekels, and shawarma costs around 15 shekels. Sit-down meals might cost between 30 and 60 shekels per person, depending on restaurant and dish choices.
Religion in Palestine
A common misconception is that all Palestinians are Muslim. Though Islam is the dominant religion in Palestine, there is a sizeable population of Christian Palestinians, especially in Bethlehem and Jerusalem.
Dressing Code in Palestine
Because Palestinian culture is typically more conservative and traditional than that in other countries, it is respectful to wear modest clothing. For women, this means covering shoulders, elbows, and knees and avoiding tight-fitting clothing. Jeans and t-shirts are acceptable. For men, this means wearing long pants that cover the knees. Men and women alike may be asked to wear special coverings at holy sites like mosques; they will be provided to you upon your arrival.
Alternative Tours
If you are interested in learning more about the Israeli occupation, Palestinian refugee crisis, and Palestinian life in general, I recommend taking an alternative tour. These are offered by various companies in cities all over the West Bank; Green Olive Tours and Breaking the Silence tours are some of the most popular. The Breaking the Silence tours are not held every day and they book up quickly, so be sure to plan ahead. In Bethlehem, tours of the Separation Wall and Aida Refugee camp are some of the best ways to gain a deeper understanding of the Israeli occupation and Palestinian displacement. The famous Walled Off Hotel, designed by British artist, Banksy, gives two tours a day for 130 shekels per person and your tour guide will be an inhabitant of Aida refugee camp. The Walled Off Hotel is an excellent place to stay in Bethlehem, but it is not the cheapest hotel option. However, it is open to the public and it is recommended that you visit to see the hotel’s museum about the occupation and its art gallery featuring local Palestinian artwork.
Domestic Travel
The cheapest means of traveling around the West Bank are by bus and sherut. Buses typically cost between 5 and 15 shekels, depending on where you want to travel. Sheruts usually cost between 10 and 30 shekels, per person. Be mindful that the holy day in Palestine is Friday, so many shops and restaurants will be closed. Some will reopen in the evenings on Fridays and bakeries and groceries stores are usually open as well. If you are traveling into or around Jerusalem, note that most public transportation is not available between sunset on Fridays and sunset on Saturdays. This is because of the Jewish holy day, known as shabbat. However, you can usually find private and shared taxis on these days.
Visit Palestine!
It is my hope that this “Know Before You Go” list has encouraged you to visit Palestine and piqued your curiosity about one of the most incredible countries I have ever visited. Tourism is one of the best ways to support Palestinians and contribute to the local economy and is crucial to comprehensively understanding the situation in Palestine. Make sure to speak to the locals, ask your guides questions, and keep an open mind. You won’t regret the experience.